Day 4 – A fantastic days walking

By now we are in the swing of walking, the routine starts with a fairly early breakfast, it is by the way remarkable the different combinations that we use for the day’s fuel. As the start point was close by today it was an early 9.15am when we were at our start point by Thirlwell Castle. This was a typical small keep the like of which are dotted around this region. They were constructed by families as strongholds to defend their interests against the marauding tribes from the north. According to the information board it performed this function until the 17^th century when it fell into disrepair. Typically these keeps were made of stone liberated from Hadrian’s Wall; indeed most of the older buildings in the region were constructed in the same way. It is no wonder there is not much left of the wall now.

It was a good job that we started early today, as it was much slower going today, even though it was only ten miles there was substantial climbing. By the end of the day we had climbed 1500 feet. The gains in height meant that the views were excellent particularly showing how the wall followed the undulations of the countryside over many miles, interspersed with guardhouses and mileposts. At times however the low cloud and persistent drizzle did detract from the longer views. You can see that it was not wonderful sunshine from the picture of our group by the trig point as they commanded the highest point of the walk.

Today we met the highest number of walkers that we have yet encountered. There were a significant number of Americans on the trail. It was great to see that we are attracting visitors to walk far from the traditional tourist centres. I am sure that they will enjoy their visit all the more for seeing a more “typical” Britain; indeed they saw it in typical weather.

We ended at one of the largest Roman forts on the wall at Housesteads. Everybody was tired but satisfied after a great days walking.

Day 3 – The hills start

Today we started at Newtown near Brampton and immediately climbed gently up onto the higher hills. This together with intermittent rain meant that it seemed like a ‘real’ days walking. One of the nice features of this walk is that dotted along its length are honesty boxes full of snack bars and drinks for which a small payment was required. It seemed that the children of the houses where they were situated ran these as a hobby some extra pocket money ran.

 

We also saw more walkers today, many of them European visitors including from Spain and Germany. It is great that foreign visitors are exploring areas off the traditional tourist trail. I hope that they return with some great memories, if not of the very typically English weather.

The examples of the wall became more striking, both linear sections and the fortifications that were situated intermittently. Some were minor block structures that housed a small number of soldiers, while other were more substantial structures that were the bases for a substantial number of troops who would be rushed to any sign of trouble. It was a well thought out and clever system to maximise the Romans effectiveness over such a long border.

Ian conjectured that the purpose of the Wall was actually to delay any attack, providing a type of early warning so that the Romans could fall back and mop up any trouble in conditions of their choosing. I think that one of the prime purposes of the wall was to form a trade barrier levying tariffs on goods particularly livestock being brought through the wall from the north.

Whatever the purpose even from the ruined remnants it formed an impressive structure built by a powerful empire. However the lesson for our times is of course how temporary it all was as an effective military/trade barrier. It probably had an effective life of less than 150 years.

Well we finished just before the rain set in and for the first time I felt as though I had done a proper day’s walking. Tomorrow promises a lot in terms of interest, unfortunately the weather forecast is not so promising.

Day 2 - We finally reach the wall, I think?

Well today was finally the time that after almost fifteen miles of walking we reached Hadrian’s Wall. You can judge for yourself although Ian assured me that underneath this mound were remnants of the wall. I have to say that it took a lot of effort to imagine this. I think that we shall start to view the wall in all its glory tomorrow.

There were many diversions on today’s walk from the planned path. This was because of the disastrous floods that hit Carlisle in 2015 the evidence of which was all around. There were marks on walls showing the height that the waters had reached, probably up to four feet. Many buildings had slots here temporary barrages could be fitted, and we passed the biscuit factory that had been out of production for many months.

Carlisle was interesting in that is displayed the best and the worst of British urban architecture. The 

castle fronting onto the River Eden was outstanding, however it was completely cut-off from the old town by an urban dual carriageway that slashed through the middle of town.

It also of course created an interminable buzz of background noise. By the river the council had been gifted a large tract of land that acted as a natural park. In 1932 the Council had invested in an impressive entrance to the park, however this was now in a state of benign neglect, and was not acting as the gateway to the park that should have been its function. It typified current municipal neglect. However previously we had seen examples of the current cult of 'gigantism' architecture to liven up public spaces. This was provoking but I am sure that the nearby statue of Queen Victoria would have said "I am not amused".

The walk was again pretty flat, but tomorrow we will start to climb up the northern Pennines and get our first real view of the wall. Unfortunately this is going to coincide with our first rain. Indeed the forecast for the week is not good.

Still as can be seen from the lunch photo the party is in good spirits. We are all relaxing in our cottage mulling over the days events, looking forward to some lively conversation and leg pulling over dinner.

Hadrian’s Wall – The start

Well today we finally started the walk, the happy band of eight walkers made it to Bowness on Solway. Although this is the start of the walk there is absolutely no sign of any stonework. However the views on all sides were superb, in the north across the Solway Firth to the Southern Uplands of Scotland, and to the south the mountains of the northern Lakes including Scafell Pike. As you can imagine from this description the weather was excellent for walking, in the mid-teens with a gentle wind and no sign of rain.

The start area is in a sense the land that time forgot, not only the link with Hadrian’s Wall but evidence of a later industrial revolution in the derelict harbour works at Port Carlisle. From there a canal once ran into Carlisle until the railway superseded it. This was in turn short-lived, closing in 1932. The old railway line offered an excellent walking path although we had to be aware of the herds of cows and their leavings.

The walk is an excellent opportunity to catch-up in depth with old friends. The conversation ranged far and wide, I am now an expert on many new things.

Lunch was taken at a small picnic table overlooking the estuary. Never has a Botham’s pork pie gone down so well. Fully refreshed we set-off again but were temporarily waylaid by the Greyhound Pub in Burgh-by-Sands. It was however at the demand of the ladies amongst us who needed the loo. The pub was adjacent to a statue of Edward I, who died here, presumably while waiting to invade Scotland. He was known as the hammer of the Scots, however I could not get a symbolic pose of the one Scotsman in the party underneath the statue. I cannot imagine why.

All in all it was a steady introduction to the walk as there were no climbs and the walking was easy under foot. Tomorrow is a similar day thereafter the climbing will start and perhaps we will see the remnants of the wall.

Tonight we visited a local pub for a typical pub meal and some ale. All had a good evening.

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Day 1 – We have arrived, a preservation problem

We had a great day day as we drove to Northumberland. Much of the drive was through countryside that we had not visited before. From the East Coast to the spine of England along the northern Pennines. Once past Darlington it became more and more remote with many sheep, no people, and a few isolated farm buildings, many of which seemed desolate. A look in a local estate agents proved that this was indeed the case; an isolated farmhouse with 2.5 acres and no services was £20,000. It would suit somebody who really likes DIY and then complete isolation. It was difficult to see how anybody is making a living in these areas, however for the casual visitor the desolate beauty is impressive.

We stopped for lunch in Alston at, surprise surprise, a heritage railway. The railway line to Alston was shut in 1976 and part has been re-laid as a narrow gauge heritage line. For me however it posed some interesting questions about preservation, the station was a perfect example of a Victorian country building by the North Eastern Railway. However a modern canopy had been built over the station, a striking glass and steel construction. It completely spoiled the appearance of what was a lovely building. A great shame because it obviously cost a lot of money, which probably could have been better spent. I think that it shows what can be wrong with much preservation. Hopefully I will have a photo to accompany this so that you can make your own mind up. Anyway the lunch in the accompanying café was excellent.

So refreshed we drove on to the cottage that would be our base for the week’s walking. It has a great situation and will be very comfortable, although it is doubtful that any of the party will be using the Jacuzzi. In the field behind the cottage are two alpacas or llamas; in truth I cannot tell the difference.

Tomorrow we venture west for the start of the Hadrian’s Wall walk from Bowness-on-Solway. The first stage is a straightforward flat stroll along the Solway Firth. I will be attempting to tweet about this using the hash tag wallwalk. More tomorrow.