A Day at Sea – Day 28

Having survived Moreton Island we are now sailing to the Whit Sunday Islands, which form part of the Great Barrier Reef. Today has been spent at sea so I will take this opportunity to describe what was a typical day on board.

I woke around seven and after reading the Guardian headlines showered, dressed and walked down to Seabourn Square. Here there is a coffee bar, where there is a great innovation, they have a coffee roaster so there is always the lovely aroma of freshly roasted beans. I got take away coffees taking Marion’s back to the cabin. While she came to I read on the balcony, it was delightful being in the early eighties. 

We then took a late and leisurely breakfast, after which we sat reading at the back of the ship. Mid-morning saw us get into our swimming costumes; we then entered into the pool and attempted some exercises. The water was lovely although it was necessary to keep your shoulders under, as the sun by now was very hot.

We had a great forty-five minutes of exercise but had to be out and showered for midday. On sea days this is the time for the team quiz session in which ten teams of ten take part. Is light-hearted fun with deadly serious undertones.

Today we had lunch outside by the pool, a freshly cooked hamburger patty with a Caesar salad followed by ice cream. After lunch there was a lecture about the Great Barrier Reef by a local pilot. I had high hopes, but this turned out to be very boring, I think that Marion closed her eyes at one point. By now it was late afternoon so it was time for a quick turn around the deck before we had to dress for dinner. Tonight was the one of two formal nights, though this only means a jacket and tie for men and evening dresses for the ladies.

We had pre-dinner drinks, a Sidecar for Marion and a Gibson for me, in the Observation Bar on the eleventh deck watching the sun go down over the Whit Sunday Islands. At dinner we were on a table with a couple from California whom we had met previously and another couple form Pittsburgh. The talk flowed easily and we were amongst the last to leave after three hours. I had come caviar, followed by a cheese soufflé, beef wellington and cheese tasting plate.

Finally we retired to the bar for a nightcap. So ended another busy day on the Seabourn Encore.

I am the entertainment, or how I cheated Davy Jones Locker – Day 28

Today we anchored off Moreton Island, the second largest sand island in the world. It was grey and squally, but I had booked on an early kayaking trip. So I left a sleeping Marion and headed for my briefing at 8am. We were instructed in the use of the lifejackets and other safety procedures before heading to a zodiac for the mile or so trip to shore. I suppose I should have read the runes when the zodiac driver said that they were a little unsure about the conditions but had decided to it was worth starting. 

We were completely wet before reaching the beach from the spray coming over the zodiac, however the water and the air were very warm so it was not an issue. But undaunted we had a demonstration of paddling and launched our kayaks from the beach. There was little chance of seeing the promised marine life, as the sea was too rough. I also did not realise that my co-kayaker was a volunteer with the Australian coastguard, so he knew his port form his starboard. It was a lovely paddle in amongst wrecks parallel to the beach. There was quite a swell but after a bit I became use to the motion and more adept at pointing the kayak into the waves.

After about an hour the three kayaks (there were originally four but one couple dropped out) were called together and told that ship to shore operations had been called off. I suppose we should have noticed that the tenders ferrying people to the shore had stopped operating. So the first challenge was transferring from the kayaks to the zodiacs in the open sea with a considerable swell. Not easy, one person had to be literally dragged from one to the other. We then bumped our way back to the ship, and got thoroughly wet, completely soaked. It then became obvious that it would become quite a challenge coming alongside the ship in a heavy swell. Indeed on the first two attempts the swell was too great and we had to abort. By now quite a crowd had gathered on the ship to watch us poor saps try to disembark. I am not sure whether Marion was waving or reviewing the travel insurance policy.

Eventually thanks to the professionalism of the crew we made it back on board, after a rather interesting thirty mines bobbing around in the Pacific Ocean. Unfortunately for the rest of the day the weather deteriorated so there was not possibility to go ashore. Instead after a lovely hot shower we had a quiet day on board. 

So I was one of only six passengers to make it ashore and make it back again, truly a good adventure that became more exaggerated in the telling. Did I mention the six sharks that surrounded the kayaks! 

Brisbane – Day 27

This morning we woke up as we sailed up the Brisbane River to the city of that name. I must admit that first impressions were a little underwhelming, it was not unlike sailing up the Humber to Hull, only much, much hotter. I suppose most river ports are the same though with cargo and oil terminals along their banks.

Marion looked at the weather and decided that it would be better to have a restful day on board, a good decision as I have already walked over 15,000 steps. The area where we docked was a little bit like Docklands, new flats, cafes and bars, some prior research was to my advantage. While most people made for the shuttle bus into town, a few others and I found the CityCat quay. This is a fast catamaran service that runs the length of the Brisbane River. A really efficient way to travel, with the added bonus of being able to stand in the open air and admire the riverside properties of the Brisbane skyline as we approached.

I alighted in the new South Bank area, there I walked through tropical rainforest and saw the impressive public infrastructure that the city has built. There was a public swimming lagoon complete with artificial beach, water features and fountains. This was very popular with young children and mothers in the eighty-degree heat. It was a delightful green lung right in the centre of the city. Otherwise the planners appeared to be modern day disciples of Robert Moses, building urban expressways along the north bank of the river.

The town has the feel of a sub-tropical city, sure there is the usual mish-mash of modern skyscrapers, but interspersed amongst these are buildings from the turn of the Twentieth Century. In the centre there is a lovely botanical garden, which in reality is a big park, with bougainvillaea and enormous trees. I particularly liked the old wool warehouses along the banks of the river that reflected what drove the areas prosperity. I did see a new business concept, a boutique barber with craft beer, now that is a thought.

So it was back on the catamaran to the calm and cool of the Seabourn Encore, and a well deserved cold beer, Grolsch I am afraid, but needs must but a great accompaniment to hamburger steak with a Caesar salad. We are in port until this evening when we sail the short distance to Morton Island for some kayaking.

Resting at Sea – Day 26

After over three weeks of touring and living out of suitcases it has been great to unpack properly, get all the washing up to date, and relax. We sailed out of Sydney last night and are headed for Brisbane tomorrow. So today was spent adjusting to the rhythms of the sea. Firstly I had an unfortunate incident with women’s knickers.

It started innocently as woke early and decided to do the washing. Now the laundry is the only place on the ship that is very busy and requires patience. I found a machine and set it going while I had breakfast. After a delay I also found a dryer, however I wanted to attend a lecture so I arranged that Marion fetch the dried washing. I then changed my mind and before the lecture decided to see if the washing was dried. At this point I found some knickers on the side of the room, but not all the washing. Indignantly I thought that somebody had gathered up my washing. I met Marion after the lecture and she said she had collected the washing; it then occurred to me that I had hijacked somebody else’s knickers, cue panic. This laundry lark really has etiquette of its own.

Other than that excitement we attended our first trivia session, ate and drank well. Despite being full the ship seems very quiet, there is no bustle around the pool, and for much of the time we had the back of the ship to ourselves. I can only conclude that everybody hibernates between meals. I will investigate further.

Leaving Sydney – Day 25

I am writing this from the Seabourn Encore as we sail from Sydney to Brisbane, which we will reach on Friday morning. It was a relaxed morning; Marion had a hair appointment so I took the opportunity to walk round the Domain. One of the lovely things about Sydney is the plethora of open space that gives it a very open feel.

It was then time to get ready for the cruise. The transfer was very smooth and we were on board on in our suite within twenty minutes of arriving at the cruise terminal.

Having finally unpacked after three and a half weeks travelling we settled down on deck to watch the departure from Sydney. It was truly wonderful; although we had previously sailed round the harbour at night on the ferries the view from the ship was amazing. I think I have some great photos, which hopefully I will get the opportunity to post later in the holiday. The Harbour Bridge and the Opera House were beautifully illuminated and were framed by the modern city skyline. It was stunning, a memorable end to our stay in Sydney. 

It was also a sad farewell as we have enjoyed our time in Sydney; it was a very welcoming city, dominated by the spectacular harbour.

West Side Story – Day 24

This maybe a briefer blog than usual as it is well past 11pm in Sydney. We have just returned to our hotel having attended a performance of West Side Story. This was performed by the Sydney Opera House, but was held on an outdoor stage situated at Mrs Macquarie’s Steps. To put this in context this is directly across the harbour from the Opera house, so that when you look back at the Opera House the Harbour Bridge behind frames it. This was to the right of the stage as we looked at it; to the left was the towering skyline of modern Sydney. These were all illuminated.

 

A huge stage had been constructed on the water, the actual design being modelled on graffiti daubed New York Subway cars. Firstly the evening was very kind to us, it was clear and warm. As neither the stage nor the auditorium has any cover this very beneficial.

The massive stage area meant that the musical’s huge cast had plenty of room to show off their dance skills. To my untutored eye the choreography and standard of dance was brilliant. Marian assures me that the singing was great. So this combined with the evocative setting and the strength of the original musical meant that it was a fabulous evening’s entertainment. Many of the songs are classics, and to hear them performed by top artists was a privilege. The setting of the stage within an iconic city skyline complimented the performance perfectly. A really great evening’s entertainment.

 

Earlier today we had ventured out on the ferries again, visiting Watson’s Bay, which is the site of the first settlement of Australia. It is also stunningly situated between the harbour and the Pacific Ocean.

The blog maybe restricted in future days as tomorrow we are boarding the cruise ship to explore the East Coast of Australia, and the internet connection will not be as good.

The Harbour, Manley and a Great Meal – Day 23

Today dawned very wet in Sydney, so it was a relaxed start while the weather cleared. The hotel we are staying in has a great location in the Rocks, just above the Harbour, and we found cooks a mean breakfast, so it was no hardship to linger. I received a telling off from Marion, she noticed that Asian women are constantly either taking selfies or having their picture taken by their partners. She felt that I was not caring enough. So at the end of this blog I will chart Marion’s poses during the day.

So we headed to the Opera House so that we could walk along the Central Quay to the ferries.

It is a lively spot with tourists and locals jostling, as the ferries are an important part of the Sydney inter-urban transport system. Today we took the famous Manley ferry, which does was it says on the tin and sails to Manley, a seaside resort at the mouth of Sydney Harbour about thirty minutes from downtown. It is a lovely trip from the views of the Harbour and the Opera House through the outer reaches of the harbour. We were able to sit outside, the breezes relieving the humidity of the morning.

Manley is a brash seaside resort, full of discount shops, and bars, but it does have a famous beach. This was the venue for a week’s surfing competition last week, however when we there the surf was little tame, this did not stop around fifty people in the water waiting to try their luck with the waves.

This afternoon I walked the Sydney Harbour Bridge, not the walk across the top but on the road deck, that gives spectacular views of Sydney’s Harbour. The only snag is the noise of the six lanes of traffic and commuter rail trains that cross along side you. However the panoramic view of the harbour activity more than compensates.

When Laura was in Sydney at the beginning of the month she recommended a restaurant, Ester, so we gave it a try. The cooking is based around using the extreme heat of a wood fired oven, which gives most things a smoky taste. We moved smoothly from roasted oysters, through blood sausage, potato pasta with scallops to hanger steak to finish with a lemon pudding accompanied by left over sour dough ice cream that was truly outstanding. The meal was paired with Australian wines, all in all a great recommendation by Laura and a really enjoyable evening out.

Finally to recompense Marion I include a few photos of her being a typical tourist.