Buenos Aires

We slept well with almost no effects of jet lag; perhaps it was the steak and red wine. It was just as well as we had to be up early for our city tour of Buenos Aires. The early start was to ameliorate the worst effects of the heat. It was very sticky today, with temperatures well in excess of 30 centigrade and high humidity. No matter our guide Joy called for us just after 8am. Joy was passionate about her city and was interesting on issues like politics. It was great to have an experienced guide and she tailored the tour to suit us.

First stop was the Square of the 9 May that is the centre of power in Buenos Aires. So much so that some of it is permanently barricaded against demonstrations. There is a permanent vigil to remind people of the Falklands (Malvinas) war, and references to the mothers who protest weekly about the 30,000 people who were disappeared under the dictatorship. Joy’s mother was alive at that time and she told us how repressive life was and how most people lived in fear. She was particularly bitter that some of the perpetrators had been pardoned. On one side of the square is the main cathedral of Buenos Aires, as can be seen from the photos this was Romanesque in construction, more Italianate than Spanish colonial. Perhaps this reflects the large number if Italians who emigrated to Argentina.

One figure dominated the tour Eva Peron, our guide obviously revered her. On one of the high rise buildings in the main street there are two massive images of her, one of her oratory facing the powerful neighbourhoods and one of her in a more natural pose facing the working class neighbourhoods. Later in the day we were to pass the theatre where she first met Juan Peron, and of course finally a visit to her grave, well a small mausoleum.

We then spent some time in the old neighbourhood of Sao Telmo that comprises of old low rise buildings and is in the process of being gentrified. Here we stopped at the indoor market for a welcome coffee. The market felt very European in character much like the British covered markets. The streets were full of expensive looking antique and art shops.

By contrast our next stop was Boca a slum area many streets of which are dangerous. However there is a protected area near the river that claims to be the home of tango. Here the corrugated iron houses had been pained garishly, there were artists selling their wares and tango dancers on the street wanting you to take their photos. Here we see Marion practicing her steps.
Boca is of course home to the famous Boca Juniors football club, to my mind their stadium although older was situated not unlike Anfield right in a working class neighbourhood. Apparently the team’s colours of blue and yellow are a reflection of the Swedish flag. The founders had agreed to adopt the colours of the next boat that landed at the nearby port.

 

The river at this point had another interesting feature that reminded us of home, a transporter bridge. Just a little more modest than the one in Middlesbrough. This led us to a drive along the riverside and the docks area, which like downtown docks areas everywhere has been gentrified and is now full of expensive apartments overlooking the water. A quick treat was a visit to the magnificent Retiro station that unfortunately reflected the faded state of the Argentinian railway system. Our final stop was the upper-class cemetery where Evita is buried. Her mausoleum is quite modest compared to the extravagance of some of the others. Much gold leaf and to my mind tastelessness was in evidence.

So I feel that we have got a real flavour of Buenos Aires, it is obvious though that the economy is not strong. There is much evidence of poverty exacerbated by an inflation that today was reported to be running at 40%. It is no wonder that everybody is pleased to accept US Dollars. There also seems to be an intense politicisation underlying life.

Tomorrow we board the Seabourn Quest bound for the Antarctic, so updated will still be made but may not be so regular.