Neka Harbour – Paradise

Last night we were treated to a spectacular cruise through the Lamiare Channel. Mountains were pressing in on each side of the ship and small icebergs floated by. We emerged to observe a large iceberg, which was made up of all sorts of amazing shapes comprising the most vivid shades of blue. The captain took us slowly pass the iceberg and then on the other side there were up to six whales around the ship. I even managed a couple of pretty good tail shots. They almost looked as if they were playing for our benefit .So it was well past midnight when we got to bed.

After a good nights sleep we woke up in Neka Harbour, which was an old whaling base and effectively is a cul-de-sac. It is just spectacularly beautiful, perhaps the most fantastic place that I have ever visited. Surrounded on three sides by mountains and huge glaciers tumbling down to the sea. At the end these glaciers were crevasses as they began the to calve into the sea. The white and blue contrasted with the black rocks of the mountains. Indeed the colours were so vivid that the ship looked quite dowdy by comparison.

All around the ship were penguins, standing on icebergs or swimming by the ship. At one point Marion counted forty-three swimming together before she gave up. After a hearty breakfast I was off kayaking. This involved taking a zodiac ride from the ship and then a transfer mid-ocean to the kayak, not as scary as it might seem. The view from low down on the water was magnificent. All human form looks so insignificant. From that angle. We paddled around just observing. First we got up close with a huge sea lion on an iceberg that sort of waved its flipper at us in greeting. Then we passed around small icebergs, all the time just listening to the splash of our paddles. The sea was absolutely calm, although skill was needed not to run aground on the small ice flows. The experience was over all too soon, and it was time to return to the ship, just in time for lunch.

After lunch it was a zodiac trip to the shore. Here we climbed a marked route that took us up a promontory overlooking the bay. The view was simply awesome. The ship was insignificant in the bay under towering mountains and glaciers. We looked down on the glaciers as their bright blue colours were reflected in the water. The crevasses at their end were clear to see. It was literally a living geography lesson. I do not think that I have visited a more beautiful place. I felt extremely privileged as I was one of the first ones to make the climb so got the full advantage of the view in peace and solitude. The real stars of the area were the penguins. There was a large colony whose behaviour was bizarre and very funny. They had formed paths known as penguin highways on which they waddled up and down. They often stopped in groups almost as if they were having a conversation. They did not seem phased by the presence of humans and often passed within a few feet, they were just fascinating. I was also able to observe them protecting their chicks.

The whole place was a natural paradise, quite unlike anywhere else that I have seen. It was great to have the opportunity to visit. Looking forward to seeing what tomorrow will bring. At 6.30pm each night we have a recap of the previous days events and are told the plans for the next day, as well as a couple of brief lectures to paint the picture of what we are seeing. Then of course off to dinner.