Peterman Harbour and further south

There was a false alarm last night. We were supposed to sail down a scenic channel, but the ice and sea conditions were such that this was not possible. We had however seen so much spectacular scenery yesterday that it was not a major disappointment.

We are now at the farthest point south on our trip at Peterman Harbour. Again this is an inlet surrounded by mountains interspersed with glaciers. As we are the last group out today I have had plenty of time to take in the breath taking scenery. Penguins are swimming past the boat, however despite much patience I am unable to get the “money” shot of them porpoising out of the water. Those little creatures just will not cooperate.

We attended a lecture about Antarctic research vessels and the type of work that is being undertaken on them. I am naturally cynical that these facilities cost a lot of money to operate that maybe could be better spent, however when you hear of the critical nature of the research I perhaps think that it should be expanded. It was fascinating to hear of the variety of research that is being undertaken and the new methods that scientists are using with things like underwater drones. It is also always good to hear from experts in their fields.

More later this afternoon when I have been ashore to visit some penguin colonies.

So the shore landing was quite difficult so Marion did not make it today but instead watched from the ship. Once on shore it was an easy walk through slushy snow to observe the penguin colonies. It was a great spot because it was possible just to observe the behaviour of these unique creatures. There were skuas hunting for chicks all the time. The adult penguins harassed them, while I was watching successfully, however somebody else observed a chick being killed by a skua. Mixed in were cormorants that looked very aristocratic, aloof from the hoi polio of the surrounding penguins. I was able to shoot a great little video of a penguin scooting across the snow on its tummy like it was in the sea, then all of a sudden standing and walking normally.

At the other end of the walk was an Argentine refuge and a cross commemorating the death in 1982 of three British scientists. Apparently they had been visiting the refuge having skied there from the British base. A storm broke-up the ice, which took a month to re-form, however when it did it was not strong enough and they it was assumed were lost through the ice. This is a poignant reminder of the harsh environment down here.

It was then a short zodiac ride back to the ship; unfortunately the whale that had been spotted had disappeared. However the bay where we were anchored was spectacular, with vast black peaks soaring from the sea. By this time the sun was out and the whole scene was idyllic.

 Back on the ship the social whirl continued with a champagne and caviar reception in the open air, it was bracing but not unpleasant. By the way I am not expecting any sympathy for the tough environment we are in.

Then we had some exciting news from the Captain, we had just crossed the point whereby we further south than a Seabourn ship had ever travelled before, and overnight we are to head further south. Our landing place tomorrow is within the Antarctic Circle, fabulous. As we head south parallel to the Antarctic Peninsular there are tabular icebergs all around us, glinting in the evening sun. Other icebergs have fantastic castellated shapes. This really is a most magical place.